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11 August, 03:30

As ocean waves approach the shore, friction with the ocean bottom causes them to slow down. if the frequency is the same, how will this affect the wavelength of the waves?

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  1. 11 August, 04:58
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    You can show that surface gravity waves slow down with decreasing water deptheven when you assume zero viscosity. So any explanation that blames friction with the seabed, i. e. a boundary layer effect, for this phenomenon is misguided. (No offense intended to anyone.)
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