Along some shorelines, incoming waves cause the water to simply rise and fall rather that form a surf zone. What does this tell you about these shorlines?

Question

Physics

Hana Carr

11 September, 13:57

Along some shorelines, incoming waves cause the water to simply rise and fall rather that form a surf zone. What does this tell you about these shorlines?

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Shania Ruiz · Answer 1

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Explanation:

Along some shorelines, incoming waves cause the water to simply rise and fall and not form surfs because of the steepness of the shorelines. Long period waves wont form surfs at steep shores because of the breaking and unstability of waves. Wave breaks at the shallow waters. The breaking of the waves depends upon H/L ratio.