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11 September, 13:57

Along some shorelines, incoming waves cause the water to simply rise and fall rather that form a surf zone. What does this tell you about these shorlines?

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  1. 11 September, 17:51
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    Along some shorelines, incoming waves cause the water to simply rise and fall and not form surfs because of the steepness of the shorelines. Long period waves wont form surfs at steep shores because of the breaking and unstability of waves. Wave breaks at the shallow waters. The breaking of the waves depends upon H/L ratio.
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